Mary Jane Thurston State Park

(Photos by Art Weber)
Mary Jane Thurston State Park is a quiet retreat in northwest Ohio, gracing the scenic banks of the Maumee River. It's calm demeanor gives few clues to the rugged nature of it ancient origins, or of the human struggles that took place here in more recent history. As the last glacier retreated from Ohio 15,000 years ago, much of northwest Ohio was covered by lake waters. The shoreline of this vast lake shrunk over time to the size of present day Lake Erie, leaving behind an enormous wetland known as the Great Black Swamp. The dense forest and mucky soil of the swamp discouraged human settlement until the mid-1800s, while providing an extensive safe haven for wildlife. Native Americans sought to preserve this last untamed corner of the Ohio frontier area as a rich hunting ground, but the determined pioneers sought to conquer it for agriculture and commerce.

Tensions between Indians and white settlers in the region ignited in the Battle of Fallen Timbers in 1794. General "Mad" Anthony Wayne brought military forces into the Maumee River Valley under instructions from President George Washington to end the conflicts that had gone on for more than twenty years. On August 20, 1794 General Wayne's army attacked an encampment of warriors commanded by Shawnee Chief Blue Jacket at a site known as Fallen Timbers. The Indians suffered heavy losses in the surprise attack and retreated from the area, ready to begin peace talks. The next year, negotiations between General Wayne, Blue Jacket and representatives of the other major tribes in Ohio resulted in the Treaty of Greenville, which laid the groundwork for a lasting peace. Just north of the park on U.S. Route 24 is a monument to the Battle of Fallen Timbers.

The federal government built a road through the Great Black Swamp in 1827 to encourage further settlement and open a route of travel to Indiana and points west. Persistent efforts to drain the swamp and fell trees through the 1800s finally exposed Ohio's most fertile soils for farming, and changed the landscape forever. The ominous swamp forest was quickly replaced with a patchwork of farms and towns. Development of the Miami and Erie Canal in the 1840s linked the Ohio River at Cincinnati to Lake Erie at Toledo, bringing trade and prosperity to the area. Dams and side-cut canals were built to provide continuous navigation of canal boats through the narrow and shallow manmade channels along the Maumee River. The dams created slackwaters within the river through which the canal boats could safely pass. The side cuts allowed canal boat traffic to pass easily from the canal channels into the river and back. Today, park visitors can walk along an historic canal channel and the remains of a canal lock which is still in operating condition. Two dams on the Maumee River near the park date back to 1840s. Nearby Independence Dam State Park also boasts a well-preserved remnant of a lock constructed to divert water from the Maumee River into the canal channel.

Fourteen acres of what is now Mary Jane Thurston State Park have been in use as a public recreation area since Mary Jane Thurston herself, a school teacher from Grand Rapids, welcomed visitors to her beautiful and historic property on the Maumee River. She bequeathed her estate in 1928 for permanent use as a public park. After several land leases and transfers, the property was dedicated as Mary Jane Thurston State Park in 1968. Adjacent land and additional land upriver, known as the North Turkeyfoot Area, were purchased in 1968 and 1969, expanding the park area to more than 550 acres.

Today, the park is a favorite destination for boating and fishing, as well as hiking, hunting, horseback riding and mountain biking. The park's two launch ramps provide access for boating on twenty miles of open river. A public marina caters to the needs of boaters and fisherman, and more than 100 docks are available for seasonal rental. The Maumee River offers anglers good sport with northern pike, walleye and bass, as well as channel and flathead catfish above the dam. In 1936, the Civilian Conservation Corps chose a pleasant riverfront spot on which to construct an enclosed shelter featuring a massive stone fireplace. This rustic day-use lodge is now equipped with modern restroom facilities and heated for year-round use, and is available for reunions, retreats, meetings or other functions for a nominal fee. A small primitive campground provides scenic sites for overnight stays.

The North Turkeyfoot area provides eight miles of multiple use trails through forest and field. The trails are open to hiking, horseback riding, mountain biking and cross-country skiing. Overnight backpacking is allowed with a free permit issued by the park office. Hunting is permitted in season in the North Turkeyfoot area, and the waterfowl hunting on the Maumee River is excellent.

Staff Profile

Joann Bowman, program coordinator at Mary Jane Thurston State Park, is a volunteer. With Joann's help it is possible for this relatively small park to make a big impact with a busy schedule of special events and a high public profile. The park is a natural setting for a variety of educational programs presented by staff and volunteers from organizations such as the Toledo Herpetological Society and the Toledo Astronomers Club, as well as from Nature's Nursery in nearby Whitehouse, Ohio. Joann does the legwork to make these programs possible. She also coordinates special events, including the annual Fourth of July concert by the river and patriotic slide show scheduled this year for 8 p.m., Saturday July 5. A new event for this spring is the morel mushroom round-up planned for May 3 at the North Turkeyfoot Area. Joann oversees other summer activities, including catfish tournaments for adults as well as children, as well as programs on popular topics, such as canals and fossils.

A recent initiative of Joann's is the "News from Your Ohio State Parks" radio program aired every other Saturday morning at 9:15 a.m. on station WNDH 103.1 FM in Napoleon. Joann approached the Maumee Valley Broadcasting Association, which agreed to broadcast free public service announcements covering the latest news and information from state parks in the listening area, including Mary Jane Thurston, Independence Dam, Harrison Lake and Van Buren. Joann lines up the talent and facilitates taping of many of the programs. Joann Bowman's initiative and dedication to Mary Jane Thurston State Park and to the community are invaluable. Her contributions make everyone's visit more enjoyable.